After getting a much better night’s sleep, we decided to climb in the Gallery at an area called “the Farside.” Sarah had been there before, and said it was in the shade for most of the day–and bonus, we could walk there from camp!
The guide book said that it was only a 15 minute approach, but we soon realized that was from the upper trailhead. We found an area that had a few 5.8s, a 5.9, with some more around the corner… and another bonus– it was in the shade.
Sarah led first on a 5.8 call Zu den händen von Herrn Wiesenthal, a fun but weird crack climb.
The 5.8 route right next to the Zu den händen, called Anselmo Power, was a pocketed, face up to an arete–such a blast to lead.
We took turns climbing the routes, though my real goal for the day was to lead a 5.9. I knew I was strong enough, but I just needed to calm my head and focus.
Since Ashley and Scott had to leave early, we had set up the routes so that they could get some climbing in before their long drive. Both of them improved so much over the course of the weekend. I was so proud! I took them for their first time indoor rock climbing about three years ago before they moved to Alaska, and it was awesome to take them on their first time outdoors!
After they left, we stayed to get some more climbing in before the long drive back home. I decided it was time for me to climb my 5.9. I settled on Schindler’s Pissed, a beautiful, corner/face/arete– really an all in one. Greg decided to jug up the rope for Anselmo Power to get some photos of my first 5.9 lead.
Once I started up the rock, my mind was clear and focused. I just worked my way up the rock, dealing with what was right in front of me, which was awesome. Once I came down from the route, Greg took a lap on the 5.8 before belaying Sarah;s lead up the 5.9.
I thought I’d jug up the 5.8, and take photos of them climbing, then clean the anchor.
Then Greg cleaned the route before we moved on to a 5.9 called Ramses.
Meanwhile, the dog passed out completely. We even flaked a rope onto her and she didn’t move.
I thought maybe since I led one 5.9 I could lead a second one… I made it up four bolts, but Sarah had to finish it for me. It was mostly an awesome crack climb, until this really weird layback/face climb. I know, now that I have figured out the moves that I would be able to lead it–but I had to top rope it to figure it out.t.
It was an amazing trip! I got myself addicted to climbing again– the challenge of climbing harder, stronger, more confidently. Can’t wait to get back out!